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    That big chunk of metal known as the engine block has to carry every part of the engine, either on it or in it --- so let's get it right. shall we! Getting it right is really pretty simple. All we have to do is make sure that the milled surface for mating with the head is aligned with the crankshaft saddles, that the cylinder bores are true and round, and that the beast is clean without blocked or contaminated oil passages. This all sounds pretty simple, but achieving these three objectives to a 100% degree requires a lot more effort than you might think.

    First, you know your engine block is dirty, because you can see the dirt. Do you also know whether or not the oil passages are clear and not partially or wholly blocked? If you have had an engine failure, low oil pressure, or even just high mileage on the engine, the blockage is probably there. It can only be removed by block dipping and high pressure hydraulic sluicing. In cases of extreme blockage, the oil galley plugs must be removed and the galleys reamed out.

    Second, what about the main bearing housings? Are they aligned with each other and are they round? Again, with either an engine failure, high mileage, or over-heating, they probably aren't. The solution is to line-bore them into alignment and back to their original size. (In case you are wondering how this is done without making the housings oversize, the main caps are precisely ground down to make the housings undersized, and then they are bored back into alignment at standard size.)

    Third. did you know that your cylinder bores are tapered and out-of-round? Well, they are, and this is one of the reasons for getting oversized pistons (Another good reason is to get greater engine displacement and power). The cylinders are bored out to match the oversize and are then once more round and true. And last, the block has been heated and cooled thousands of times, making the milled surface slightly warped and a good candidate for a leaky or blown head gasket --- so we mill it true again!

     All of these things go into making your engine block a reliable part of your engine that will contribute toward producing more power. After all, it has to carry everything else!

                      Block work:

Dip block $60.00
Sluice oil galleys $60.00
Ream oil galleys $150.00                    
Mill block true (up to 0.010") $80.00 (more than .010"- $120.00)
Bore & hone cyl to fit pistons $50.00 ea (Specify desired piston/cyl clearance)
Hone cyl only $15.00 ea
Bore & hone removable cylinders $70.00 ea
Install & hone cam bearings $140.00 (Must have cam also - does not include cost of cam bearings)
Line-bore main saddles $320.00 (Must have main caps and main cap bolts)
Line-bore cam saddles (block) $320.00 (Must have cam bearings and camshaft)
Sleeve cylinder $240.00 (includes cost of sleeve)
Install block  protector plate $650.00 (for 4-cyl open deck engines such as Honda, Subaru, Nissan, etc. --- includes cost of protector plate

                                SHOP ORDER PROCEDURE:

Minimum shop order is $60.00. Parts sent in must be sent with freight prepaid, a written order, and a minimum 50% deposit.